While Friday was an “obligatory” day to visit the largest
city in Newfoundland, Saturday was a thoroughly enjoyable day of driving the
Newfoundland peninsula between Trinity Bay and Conception Bay.
There were several possible day trips from where we were
staying in Holyrood but I wanted to go as far away from cities and people as
possible in a day. We headed west on TCH
1 and got off at Highway 80.
The east side of the island is definitely more populated
than the west side; but there are still miles and miles of beautiful coastline
and rock formations….like this one.
This was Shag Rock.
From the north side, you could see that Shag Rock was
actually more than one island.
We also came to this red rock with green hair.
While we stopped to get pictures of the green haired red
rock,
Chuck went up and talked to this fisherman who was cleaning
cod.
Today was opening day for cod season. Cod is protected and has a limited
season. The limit is 5 per person a day and 15 per boat. In other words, no matter how many people there
were in the boat, there could be no more than 15 cod in the boat at one
time.
We next stopped in the town of Heart’s Content to go to the Cable Station
Historic Site. This was one of the
many “surprises” we find on our day trips that unexpectedly end up being so
interesting.
Next, we came to the community of Turks Cove…
It was here in the little fishing community of Heart’s
Content that the first transatlantic cable was laid way back in the 1800’s and
the cable station was still operational until 1965. The cable station turned the fishing town of
Heart’s Content into kind of a boom town with all the employees of the cable
station.
Heart’s Content was chosen for this station because of its
deep harbor making it easier for the ships laying the cable to come into the
harbor.
The employees were paid very well. The cable station built apartments and duplexes for the
employees to live in, a church, and a school.
This caused some resentment from the local fishing community families.
During World War I, many women began working in the cable station; and those who exceeded at their jobs were paid as much as the men.
The building and all of the equipment inside had been
preserved very well. This is where the
cables entered the building.During World War I, many women began working in the cable station; and those who exceeded at their jobs were paid as much as the men.
This was some of their earlier transmissions in Morse code.
How would you like to sort these wires?
During its operations, they continued to improve their
technology with equipment like a submerged repeater.
This was one of the typewriters used for transcribing the
messages.
This typewriter had some sort of recording tape on it (kind
of like a desktop computer with a tape drive?)
All of the communications were done via Morse Code. Can you tell what this Newfoundland word is
in Morse Code?
(Post a comment or email me and I will email you back to see
if you got it right.)
It was a very proficient operation and the best means of
communication between the eastern hemisphere and the western hemisphere for
many, many years. Just think – some of
the most important communications of the world happened because of this office
in Hearts Content, Newfoundland.
We stopped in at a craft shop in the building and spoke with Valerie, Tara and Muriel who worked there in the building. They kept saying “Oh, we love listenin’ to ya’ talk.” And we responded, “We like listening to ya’ll talk too.” We could understand these ladies much better than some of the other Newfies we have spoken with. Tara said she thought it was because they make a conscious effort to slow their speech to tourists. She said that if we heard her talking with some of her friends, we wouldn’t understand her either.
After we left the building, we walked across the street to the beach where the cables came in from the ocean.
The cables were several thick wires twisted together. You wonder how in the world did messages get
transmitted from these?
We were trying to decide whether to cut back across the peninsula on Highway 74 here at Heart’s Content so our drive would not be so long or go all the way out to the end of the peninsula. Tara (from the cable station) told us that we were only about 45 minutes from the end so we decided to drive all the way out.
As we drove through the town of Heart’s Content, we saw some
of the duplexes built by the cable company for their employees and their employees' families to live in.
We also saw this candy-striped lighthouse out on the point.
The town of Heart’s Content is now just a small fishing
community once again.
Next, we came to the community of Turks Cove…
…where we found a Newfoundland swimming pool (one of their many ponds)...
We next drove through the town of New Chelsea.
Next, we came to New Melbourne…
…where, of all things, we found people surfing.
The waves were powerful and beautiful.
Quite the contrast:
waves for surfing in the summer and firewood to keep warm in the winter.
We saw this travel trailer boondocking way out on the point. Now that would be a nice place to camp.
A little further up the road we could see the waves coming
in and crashing against the rock cliffs.
We headed toward Grates Cove at the tip of the peninsula.
Another beautiful little fishing community nestled in the
surrounding steep hillsides.
As we left the town of Grates Cove, we spotted these rock
walls up on the hillside.
This was another Provincial Historic Site where settlers had
built rock walls to keep their roaming domestic animals out of their vegetable
gardens.
We headed back south on Highway 70 and found this hidden
pulloff that was absolutely stunning. If
it weren’t for the very bumpy road, this would have been a great place to
boondock.
We traveled through several more communities on the east
side of the peninsula.
Chuck spotted what he thought was snow under some of the
rocks.
But it was a big hole running under one of the cliffs
forming kind of an arch.
We came upon this sign as we entered the town of Blackhead.
But we couldn’t find the Methodist Church. We stopped and asked a lady at a grocery
store and she said the church was no longer there. It was just a marker showing the site of where
the first Methodist church in Canada had been located. So we drove back and finally found it.
I finally got a picture of these wild pink flowers we would
see growing all along the highway.
After stopping in Wal-mart in Carbonear for a couple of
items I had forgotten at the grocery store on Friday, we headed back home.
This was one of those special days that we didn’t expect to
be special. And that’s usually the way
it is. Like the Cabot Trail in Nova
Scotia, the Western Brook Boat tour in Gros Morne, and even the bike ride on
the rail trail in Kutztown, Pennyslvania, we were not anticipating anything all that
special when we started. But with the
history of the cable station and the beauty of the coastline, it turned out to
be a surprisingly nice day trip.
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